The Diamond Pro

What Makes a Fancy Shape have a nice Cut?

The following is a real email conversation between The Diamond Pro and a reader just like you who contacted us. Personal information is always removed. Learn from these posts, or contact us yourself to get free personalized help.

This question came from a reader of my article about Diamond Cut.

that’s great, but what about fancy cuts? I am interested in a rectangular radiant cut diamond, and the amount of conflicting information on what angles and proportions are preferable is very confusing.  Some sites say that to be a very good cut, the table and depth percentages need to be less than 65%, other say that for a rectangular radiant, depths of more than 70% are preferable.  Help!

You bring up a very good point. Aside from perhaps length to width ratios, there really aren’t any universally accepted ideal cut standards for any fancy shape.  There was a lot of talk at one point of some of the labs coming out with Princess and Emerald cut grading scales, but I’m not sure whatever came of it.

For the straight-sided brilliant cuts (like radiant and princess), the general rule of thumb as I recall is 70/70 (70% depth, 70% table).  But unlike the 60/60 rule with rounds, there is significantly more leeway. For example, a princess cut can range from about 65% depth to about 75% depth and still look great, but a 65% depth round stone will be just shy of hideous. With Radiants, the ideal range is probably more like 60% to 74% depth.

With the round-sided fancy shapes (like oval and marquise), you either really need to see the stone, or make sure the online vendor you’re buying from has a good return policy.

Top Recommended Vendors
James Allen James Allen is the leader in online diamond sales. Their imaging technology is at the point where it's almost the same as inspecting a diamond with a jeweler's loupe. Their customer experience is best in class, and they have recently upgraded their non-engagement jewelry inventory as well. And for a limited time, take advantage of their 25% Off pre-Black Friday Sale!
What we love about them:
  • No questions asked returns within 30 days of shipment. James Allen will send you a paid shipping label to return the ring.
  • Lifetime Warranty
  • Free International Shipping
  • Free prong tightening, repolishing, rhodium plating and cleaning every 6 months
  • Provide insurance appraisals
  • One free resizing within 60 days of purchase
  • Free ring inscriptions
  • Best-in-class high quality imagery of all diamonds in stock
  • 24/7 Customer Service
  • Best-in-class packaging

Blue Nile Blue Nile is the largest and most well known internet jewelry seller. They have the industry-leading largest available exclusive online inventory. Their high quality images are catching up to James Allens' and their prices are amazing.  
What we love about them:
  • No questions asked returns within 30 days of shipment. Blue Nile will send you a paid shipping label to return the ring.
  • Lifetime Warranty
  • Free Shipping
  • Free prong tightening, repolishing, rhodium plating and cleaning every 6 months
  • Provide insurance appraisal
  • One free resizing within the first year of purchase
  • High quality images of about half of their diamonds
  • 24/7 Customer Service
  • 100% credit towards future upgrades (must be at least double in value)
  • Best in class fulfillment

Still afraid of getting ripped off?

Before you buy a diamond, get personal buying advice from industry veterans. We'll help you get the best diamond for the money.

Ask your diamond purchase question here

  • This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged.

DISCLAIMER: We don't use your email for marketing. Period.

Why we are doing this for free?

Click for Diamond Purchase Advice 100% Free

Ask your diamond purchase question here

We are a team of diamond experts who will teach you to identify scams and avoid spending money on features you can't see. Tell us as much information as possible to help us help you (ie, budget, preferences, etc)

  • This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged.

Cancel

DISCLAIMER: We don't use your email for marketing. Period.

Please enter your email address to receive your personal code:

Here is your coupon code: GFDSF3GF