We are reader-supported. Buying through any red colored link on our site may earn us commissions. Learn More.

Q&A: The Tricky Business of Buying the Best Oval Cut Diamond

By Mike Fried,

Ira, Thanks so much for your informative site. I have read your Blue Nile page, but the nicest ring/diamond combo I have found is on Blue Nile, so I would really appreciate any further advice you have. The diamond is on hold for me, so you can’t access it, but I downloaded the page so I can email it to you. Here are the stats:
Stock number: LD01599857

Price: $10,553
Bank wire price:
$10,395
Price per carat:
$6,989
Carat weight:
1.51
Cut: Very Good
Color: G
Clarity: VS1
Depth %:
63.9%
Table %:
57%
Polish:
Very Good
Symmetry:
Good
Girdle:
Slightly Thick to Thick
Culet:
None
Fluorescence:
None
Measurements: 8.66 x 6.45 x 4.12 mm
Length/width ratio:
1.34

SETTING INFORMATION
Stock number: 17875
Metal:
950 Platinum
Width:
2mm
Prong metal:
Platinum

SIDE STONE INFORMATION
Number of round diamonds: 18
Minimum carat total weight (ct. tw.):
0.24
Average color: H
Average clarity: VS2
Setting type:
Pavé setting

Again, thanks so much for your site. I am looking forward to receiving your advice.


This is a classic case of misplaced priorities. You’re paying a premium for a relatively high color (H is much better value) and a very high clarity, but your cut grade is not so grade and that’s what matters most.

Thanks. Can you make suggestions for other diamonds I should look at?

You know what, I have to confess I made a big mistake. YOu never mentioned the shape of the stone, and I didn’t notice the dimensions and L/W ratio at the bottom. My eye caught the depth and table %s which are very much typical of round diamonds (and not really for other shapes), so I assumed it was a round that was a tiny bit too deep!

So I just searched for the stone on BN and discovered it’s an oval. The thing is, 95% of ovals out there are really really ugly. So buying one blindly is a very risky endeavor. If you don’t believe me, scan though the pics on James Allen of the ovals in the market, and you’ll see for yourself. Seeing the diamond before you buy (or at least a picture) is really an imperative with Ovals (and Marquise and Pear). You’ve got bowties, boxiness, and many other issues that can plague an oval. And none of these things can be figured out from the certificate. And this isn’t to mention that a L/W ratio of 1.32 is not long enough for a proper oval.

I looked for you at James Allen, and this is what I found:
https://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/G-VS1-Premium-Cut-Oval-Diamond-1349596.asp

https://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/D-VS1-Premium-Cut-Oval-Diamond-1373604.asp

There wasn’t anything else that was decent looking. THese two happen to look very nice, though.

Thanks a lot!

I will probably go with this one.

https://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/D-VS1-Premium-Cut-Oval-Diamond-1373604.asp

Any comments about using this setting for that diamond?

https://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/settings-with-sidestones/platinum-pave-set-engagement-ring.html

Thanks again.
…….

Actually, wouldn’t you say that this diamond is overkill for color and clarity? Couldn’t I get a bigger diamond for a lessor grade yet visibly indistinguishable diamond?

Thanks so much again.
…….
Sorry about the number of questions.

I am browsing your web site again and I see you say you are hesitant to recommend a diamond with medium blue fluorescence that is color grade G or better. I just noticed that the diamond that you recommended is D with medium blue fluorescence. Should I keep looking?

Thanks again.
…….
One more question. The girdle of this diamond is thin to thick. How does that play into the quality?

It’ll be great in that setting!
…….
The problem is that there are so few nicely cut ovals out there, you can’t be picky. The VS1 is a bit of overkill since an eye clean SI will look just like a VS. But the color would most definitely be noticeable next to a G/H color.
…….
Medium blue is a problem in high color stones only extremely rarely. If there were two equivalent options, obviously I’d steer you to the one without Flr. But all things considered, this is most definitely your best option out there.
…….
I tell people with fancy shapes (ie, not rounds) to just avoid the extremes (ie, “extremely thin” and “extremely thick”)

Thanks so much. I will probably buy the diamond and setting later on today.

sounds great! let me know how it goes!

James Allen James Allen is the leader in online diamond sales. Their imaging technology is the same as inspecting a diamond with a jeweler's loupe. They have the largest exclusive loose diamond inventory online and fantastic prices. They also have the nicest collection of lab-created diamonds online.
What we love about them:
  • No questions asked returns within 30 days of shipment. James Allen will send you a paid shipping label to return the ring.
  • Lifetime Warranty
  • Free International Shipping
  • Free prong tightening, repolishing, rhodium plating and cleaning every 6 months
  • Provide insurance appraisals
  • One free resizing within 60 days of purchase
  • Free ring inscriptions
  • Best-in-class high quality imagery of all diamonds in stock
  • 24/7 Customer Service
  • Best-in-class packaging
Arrow down
Arrow up
Blue Nile Blue Nile is the largest and most well-known internet jewelry seller. They have a very large exclusive online inventory. Their high-quality images are catching up to James Allens' and their prices are amazing. Save 25% on settings at Blue Nile!

Please enter your email address to receive your 25% off coupon code:

What we love about them:
  • No questions asked returns within 30 days of shipment. Blue Nile will send you a paid shipping label to return the ring.
  • Lifetime Warranty
  • Free Shipping
  • Free prong tightening, repolishing, rhodium plating and cleaning every 6 months
  • Provide insurance appraisal
  • One free resizing within the first year of purchase
  • High quality images of about half of their diamonds
  • 24/7 Customer Service
  • 100% credit towards future upgrades (must be at least double in value)
  • Best in class fulfillment
Arrow down
Arrow up

Still afraid of getting ripped off?

Before you buy a diamond, get personal buying advice from industry veterans. We'll help you get the best diamond for the money.

Ask your diamond purchase question here

  • Hidden
  • This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged.

DISCLAIMER: We don't use your email for marketing. Period.

Please enter your email address to receive your 25% off coupon code:

Here is your coupon code: GFDSF3GF

Diamond Pro

Diamond Pro

  • Unfortunately, the AI chat we worked so hard training is not helping our readers the way we would like. You deserve the best advice you can get.

    Would you like to contact a human diamond pro? Just fill out this email form and we will answer you ASAP (usually within one day).

  • This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged.