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Q&A: In Search of Princess Cut Diamond for $3-5K Budget

By Mike Fried,

Hi, I’m just starting to research buying an engagement ring and I came across your site (and james allen as well). Your advice would be really appreciated. I’d like a princess cut diamond in a tension setting. The one I like on the James Allen site has 2 corners of the diamond free. Is this a bad idea? What is your overall impression of tension settings? I’m looking for a ring in the range of $4000-$6000 (total).

Shape: Princess

Desired Color Range: at least H

Desired Clarity: VS1

Budget for Diamond: I guess around $3000-$5000.

Oh, one last issue is I live in Europe but will be traveling on vacation to Miami over the Christmas holidays. I hoping to have it ordered and sent to my hotel. thanks for any help. cheers.

Thanks for writing! I’d be very happy to help. Btw, where in Miami will you be visiting? I spent the first 18 years of my life down there!

I don’t think there’s any issue with a tension setting set diagonal. In fact, I think it looks quite beautiful!

Here’s an example of what you can expect to get for your budget:

https://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/H-VS1-Ideal-Cut-Princess-Diamond-1261167.asp?a_aid=dmnd1357

That stone has a perfect cut for a princess. It’d be great in the tension setting you’re considering. If you’re not ready to order, then please drop me a line when you are, and I’ll gladly look again for you!

Thanks for the quick reply. Btw your webpage is amazingly helpful! I’ll be at South Beach. Plan to surprise my girlfriend on new years.

Just to satisfy my shopping curiosity, I have a few appointment with jewelers in Antwerp next week. I’ll compare those with the online stores (jamesallen is the best one?).

I’ve narrowed the settings down to either:

https://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/contemporary-rings/item_500-1353.asp

or

https://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/contemporary-rings/ring/item_500-7625.asp

I like the first one better but I’m worried about the unprotected corners.

If you don’t mind, I’ll contact you again after my Belgium trip for help looking for the best princess cut diamond aroudn $3500.

Sounds Great. I look forward to hearing from you!

I just returned from a day in Antwerp where I visited 4 different reputable diamond stores (all adja members) and I’m a little confused. First of all, I was really disappointed at the selection of diamonds I was shown. 3-6 per store.

Would love to have your input on a number of issues.

1. The H coloured stones I was shown were in my opinion very obviously yellow compared to the others. I was very surprised as you suggest the H.

2. I saw 2 SI1’s (apparently very difficult to come by), and I can’t see any difference.

3. The table (thats the top, correct?) varies greatly. I saw one at 64% (looked way too small) and one closer to 80% (way too big). What is your ideal?

4. In my opinion, the squareness is very important. What is the threshold for visual squareness?

5. They were uniformly against the tension settings. Not safe, and too bulky.

6. I showed the jamesallen.com site to some of them. They said either, they never heard of, or warned me against online stores. I was a little concerned.

Sorry for all the questions. I’m just starting to get a little anxious.

What kind of cert did the h color stones have? HRD?

All the stones I saw had GIA certifs.

This is an excerpt from my article on color:

“Especially for Rounds, but also for other shapes, Diamond Color is primarily a relative characteristic. What I mean by this is that an I-colored diamond really only looks like an I-color when it’s placed next to a higher-colored diamond for comparison. “

I think the stone looked yellow to you because they were comparing it directly next to a D or E color.

An H color princess cut viewed by itself will not look yellow.

I agree that an SI1 would be best if we can locate one that’s eye clean.

80% is way to big. I prefer smaller tables in princess cuts. So for me, between 65 and 70% is ideal.

Squareness is definitely key. A l/w ratio of between 1.00 and 1.05 is what you want to shoot for.

i don’t know much about jewelry – my professional experience is limited to the loose diamond trade, so I can’t comment really about the tension setting.

If you want to understand why they “warned” you against JA, see this article here:

https://www.diamonds.pro/truth-about/james-allen-blue-nile/

They’re very intimidated by them.

Here’s a great option:

https://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/G-SI1-Ideal-Cut-Princess-Diamond-1326504.asp?a_aid=dmnd1357

Thats what I figured about the H stone. Indeed they were compared side-by-side with an E and a G stone.

Thanks for the suggesting of the G stone. With your criteria, I found a few more that I would appreciate your comments on.

1. https://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/H-VVS2-Ideal-Cut-Princess-Diamond-1337584.asp?a_aid=dmnd1357

little out of my price category but its large and VVS2

2.https://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/G-SI2-Ideal-Cut-Princess-Diamond-1324255.asp?a_aid=dmnd1357

I’m rather fond of this one. But I’m doubting it would be eye clean with the inclusion right in the middle.

3. https://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/H-SI1-Ideal-Cut-Princess-Diamond-1336339.asp?a_aid=dmnd1357

This one looks really nice for a SI1! And a good price too.

The SI2 is definitely not good. THe inclusion will almost certainly be visible to the naked eye.

The VVS2 is definitely very nice, but as you mention, it’s expensive.

The SI1 is a really stunning cut, and almost certainly eye clean. THe only issue here is that it has an extremely thin girdle.

hmmm, I was being hopeful with the SI2.

I assume extremely thin girdle is a deal breaker?

I’m almost convinced with your suggestion of the G SI1 best but I found another one. What do you think of this one?

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds-search/diamonds/H-SI1-Ideal-Cut-Princess-Diamond-1327152.asp?a_aid=dmnd1357

Not sure if its eye clean, its just above your cut off of 70% table but its perfectly square.

…….

Oh, I forgot to add that the only concern I have for the G SI1 that you suggested is the ratio of 1.04. Although acceptable, it seems to be on the high side.

1.04 ratio really is fine. It won’t look off-square to you at all. The GSI1 I recommended is a much better choice. The stone you linked to has a black inclusion dead center which will probably be visible. Plus, the stone I linked to is significantly larger in terms of LxW.

Just the confirmation I wanted. Sorry to be a bother.

I’ll try to buy today.

thanks again!

Sounds great! Let me know how it goes!

James Allen James Allen is the leader in online diamond sales. Their imaging technology is the same as inspecting a diamond with a jeweler's loupe. They have the largest exclusive loose diamond inventory online and fantastic prices. They also have the nicest collection of lab-created diamonds online.
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What we love about them:
  • No questions asked returns within 30 days of shipment. Blue Nile will send you a paid shipping label to return the ring.
  • Lifetime Warranty
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  • Free prong tightening, repolishing, rhodium plating and cleaning every 6 months
  • Provide insurance appraisal
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