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Q&A: Help Finding a Pair of Round or Asscher Cut Earrings With a $20k Budget

By Mike Fried,

I am interested in purchasing a pair of diamond earrings for my wife’s 40th birthday.

Something that looks like this (in terms of style):
http://www.cartier.com/en-us/collections/jewelry/categories/earrings/diamond-collection/n8515069-1895-earrings.html

or perhaps Diamond stud earnings with an asscher cut as opposed to round cut like this:
Asscher Diamond Stud Earrings

Although I think I prefer a round as opposed to asscher cut. But I am open minded on the shape/cut of the diamond.

My budget is ~20,000 for the earings.

I am thinking an ideal cut and 1.5 carats for each ear or perhaps a little less (e.g. 1.45 carats per ear) as I read price goes up at 1/2 and full carrat breakpoints.

But I am not sure what size is going to provide the best balance of very visible but not flashy.

Not sure what color and clarity is appropriate. I want the color to look white without inclusions visible. Maybe H and VS2?

But honestly I am not sure what carat size will make the diamond look visible/prominent without looking flashy.

I would strongly prefer the diamond on a gold backing as opposed to rose gold or platinum backing.

Not sure what else to tell you. My wife is Indian-American (meaning from India originally) and relatively petite (5 feet 2 inches tall).

Please let me know what else I can tell you.

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

I found this matched pair of diamonds for you.
Blue Nile LD07911875
Blue Nile LD07664181

They are very well cut and colorless. I checked and these 1.50 carat matching stones are less expensive than a matching pair of 1.45 carat diamonds.
https://www.diamonds.pro/education/color/

As for the shape, it’s completely up to your personal taste. The asscher studs are beautiful as well.

Let me know what you think and which shape is your favorite.

Are there other websites you recommend that have an interactive feature that would allow me to see/visualize what a 1 carat, vs. 1.25 carat vs. 1.5 carat diamond earring look like on an ear to get a sense of the difference? I found one such site last week but forgot to write down the site.

……

Will take a look at the links and follow up with any questions (beyond the one I emailed you earlier) as appropriate.

Talk soon!

……

Can you provide some explanation/rationale on your color and clarity recommendations?

In other words, is there a color and clarity you recommend paying for so that the color and clarity looks white and not included to the naked eye but not buying above (unless money is no object)?

Is I and VS1 (which is the color and clarity of the stones you recommended) what you would suggest — meaning you would not pay for a higher color and clarity because it is not observable?

In terms of the other characteristics of the diamond (depth percentage and table percentage) is there a depth% and table % that you are looking for or other characteristics of the diamond beyond size, color, clarity and cut that is factoring into your recommendation?

……

Finally do you have any recommendations for where to buy a 14k gold or 18k gold ring to set the diamonds in a 2 gold earrings whether it be at Blue Nile or anywhere else?

……

This article by Mike suggest I1 clarity is sufficient for diamond stud earrings. You had selected a stone with a VVS2 clarity rating which is several notches above I1. What clarity rating do you think is most appropriate for a set of diamond earnings so that that inclusions are not visible to naked eye and I am not “over-paying” for a clarity rating that is not visible?

I am hoping to finalize my decision in the next several days and would appreciate your help in making an informed purchase decision.

I appreciate the advice of you and your colleagues.

Thanks.

I found this link where you can visualize different sizes of studs. Unfortunately, the biggest size is 1.00 carat. I hope it helps anyway.
www.jamesallen.com/fine-jewelry/preset-diamond-studs/?a_aid=dmnd1357

Yes, I think that there’s no reason to pay extra for color grade. I wouldn’t go higher than with an I color stone. It will look colorless in the setting. Unless you compare it with a higher color diamond side by side, you won’t notice notice the difference.
https://www.diamonds.pro/education/color/

Regarding the clarity grade, I wanted to make sure that the inclusions are not going to be eye-visible. Since you’re looking for a 1.50 carat stones, I chose higher clarity grade.

As for the depth and table %, we do have a certain parameters. In our experience, diamonds with depth 59-62.8% and table 55-59% return light with the most brilliance.

Let me know what you decide.

Wouldn’t an SI1 or VS2 clarity cut not have inclusions that were visible to the naked eye?

That’s the guidance from the Blue Nile website.

It so, wouldn’t it make more sense to buy a SI1 or VS2 clarity diamond rather than the VS1 you recommended? What is the lowest clarity you would go whereby it is safe to assume their would not be visible inclusions?

If you think it makes sense to purchase a SI1 or VS2 clarity diamond can you recommend a revised set of two matched stones (with the other parameters staying the same as your prior recommendation)?

Do you have any suggestions on where to buy the gold earrings to set the stone. You think Blue Nile is as good a choice for the gold studs as any?

Thanks again for your assistance.

We’ve had great experiences with Blue Nile. You can surely choose from their studs.

I did include SI1 and VS2 stones into my search. But these ended up to be the best and least expensive pair. It’s also important to see where the inclusions are located. We want to make sure that the inclusions are not eye-visible. especially on a 1.50 carat stone.

How can you tell where the inclusions are located? Also, can you provide your recommendation (keeping all other criteria constant) for 1.25 carat diamond for each ear (2.5 for the pair).

I was considering a 1.25 in each ear (as opposed to 1.5 carat) not to reduce cost but because it is my understanding that seeing diamond studs above 2 carats (for the pair) is relatively unusual.

I want a diamond stud set for my wife that is prominent but not “over the top.”

I just spoke to Blue Nile and they asked me whether I should be concerned about setting a J colored diamond against platinum or white gold instead of yellow gold in terms of making sure the diamond is colorless.

Would you be hesitant to recommend I set a J colored stone (the one you recommended in the 1.2 carat recommendation) against platinum stud setting (as opposed to yellow gold)? Meaning do you think I would observe any color in the diamond were it set against white gold or platinum (as opposed to yellow gold).

Thanks!

The other question I meant to ask you both is whether i should be concerned that the first 1.2 carat stone had “strong blue” fluorescence and the second stone a “strong” fluorescence according to Blue Nile.

Blue Nile said the fluorescence would be only observable under black light — e.g. at a club.

Is that true?

For the vast majority of our readers will J color stones appear colorless in white or platinum solitaire studs. Unless you’re extremely color sensitive, I’d stick with J color stones.

As for the strong fluorescence, both the GIA certs say that the grade is strong blue. There’s no need to worry about that. As they explained, this quality is visible only under certain light. At the same time, I wouldn’t say that it’s good or bad. You might actually like it.

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What we love about them:
  • No questions asked returns within 30 days of shipment. Blue Nile will send you a paid shipping label to return the ring.
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  • Free prong tightening, repolishing, rhodium plating and cleaning every 6 months
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