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Q&A: Help Finding a Heart-Shaped Diamond For a Yellow Gold Bezel Setting With a $1,000 Budget

By Mike Fried,

Hello Diamond Pro team,

I am beginning to research diamonds and ring settings in preparation to purchase a custom engagement ring for my girlfriend. Thank you for the numerous and detailed articles on your website. I spent an entire day reading through your content, and feel much more prepared to begin my search.

I have a question regarding where to purchase a diamond. I have visited several of the companies your team recommends (Blue Nile, James Allen, etc), but as I am located in Japan, I would like to hear your recommendation for a company with a physical presence in Japan. I do not necessarily need to visit a brick and mortar store, but I am hoping to avoid import tariffs (about 5%). If any of the companies you recommend will cover import tariffs, then that would be another excellent alternative.

Thank you in advance for your time. I look forward to your response.

I checked and it seems Blue Nile delivers to Japan. It’s possible they even have offices there which would solve the import fees issue, I’d recommend you check with them directly and see what the situation is. We have yet to secret shop Japan, but Mike and I secret shopped jewelry stores in Eastern Asia last Christmas and we have found the prices in brick and mortar stores to be around 30-40% more expensive than comparable diamonds online. I can imagine the prices in Japan to be about the same (if not higher).

That is interesting to hear that you’ve observed a substantial markup in East Asia stores. I’ve done some additional searching for diamonds here in Japan since I contacted you and found prices higher than I expected as well. I will follow up on your advice to contact Blue Nile directly to see if they do have any offices or distributors here in Japan to help avoid import tariffs and taxes.

I apologize for the long delay, but I have finished my research and found ring crafters here in Japan who are able to take on the project I have in mind. I’ve also more than confirmed that the prices of diamonds here in Japan are close to double what I can find online. As such, I would like to proceed with purchasing a diamond from either Blue Nile or James Allen (or similar).

To describe what I am looking for, I think a .5 carat heart shaped diamond will work well. At this time I am planning on using yellow gold for the ring, so the color can be a lower grade. Clarity is similarly not overly important, as the stone is relatively small. Additionally, just as in the image the ring will have a bezel, so that may hide some small inclusions.

Thank you for finding options that match the diamond I am looking for. Currently I am in contact with the crafter who will be producing the ring and we are discussing the details of the piece. As such, I have not yet made my purchase. It seems I may have been a bit too early in trying to select a diamond. Most of the options we have discussed so far are no longer available.

Once I am able to get a confirmation from the crafter I will try again to select a diamond. I hope that will be within the next week. Seeing as the diamonds move faster than I expected, I will hold off on searching until I have that confirmation.

Good news, I have a confirmation from the ring crafter that we can proceed. I have the final price on the ring and there are no issues with the design.

I am hoping for a diamond under $1000 USD. Again, color can be lower as I’m using yellow gold, eye-clean is sufficient for clairity, and there are no concerns with flouresence of any amount. I would like the dimensions to be +5mm in both directions if possible.

I’ve looked again on Blue Nile and James Allen and found a handful of good candidates. I have tried to focus on diamonds that are taller than wide, especially ones with very sharp points and clefts.
Blue Nile
Blue Nile LD12332731
Blue Nile LD12612608

James Allen
www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/heart-shaped/0.50-carat-e-color-si1-clarity-sku-7249133?a_aid=dmnd1357
www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/heart-shaped/0.53-carat-i-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-7417251?a_aid=dmnd1357
www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/heart-shaped/0.57-carat-d-color-vs2-clarity-sku-7136497?a_aid=dmnd1357 (slightly over $1100, but with the James Allen first purchase $100 discount should be ok)
www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/heart-shaped/0.50-carat-f-color-si1-clarity-sku-7454501?a_aid=dmnd1357

Blue Nile LD12332731
Blue Nile LD12612608
These two are great.

www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/heart-shaped/0.50-carat-e-color-si1-clarity-sku-7249133?a_aid=dmnd1357
This one has a Cloud listed as the first inclusion in the clarity notes which might be a problem. It usually means that the cloud is the most important inclusion and it can make the diamond look hazy in daylight.

www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/heart-shaped/0.53-carat-i-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-7417251?a_aid=dmnd1357
Beautiful.

www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/heart-shaped/0.57-carat-d-color-vs2-clarity-sku-7136497?a_aid=dmnd1357
Medium fluorescence should be avoided on D-G diamonds. It usually causes haziness.

www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/heart-shaped/0.50-carat-f-color-si1-clarity-sku-7454501?a_aid=dmnd1357
This one is fantastic. Great choice!

Glad to hear the F-color SI1 I found looks good to you. I am curious about the scratches or thin lines visible on the far left and lower right of the table. Are these thin inclusions, scratches, or cracks?

The inclusions are not scratches, it’s twinning wisps which are harmless thin lines going throughout the diamond. There’s no way those would be visible in person or have a negative impact on the diamond’s integrity and appearance.

Thank you, good to know.

I think that settles it. I’ll order the diamond tomorrow. I’ve had a hold placed on it so that I can come back to it.

Thank you again for everything.

It was my pleasure.

James Allen James Allen is the leader in online diamond sales. Their imaging technology is the same as inspecting a diamond with a jeweler's loupe. They have the largest exclusive loose diamond inventory online and fantastic prices. They also have the nicest collection of lab-created diamonds online.
What we love about them:
  • No questions asked returns within 30 days of shipment. James Allen will send you a paid shipping label to return the ring.
  • Lifetime Warranty
  • Free International Shipping
  • Free prong tightening, repolishing, rhodium plating and cleaning every 6 months
  • Provide insurance appraisals
  • One free resizing within 60 days of purchase
  • Free ring inscriptions
  • Best-in-class high quality imagery of all diamonds in stock
  • 24/7 Customer Service
  • Best-in-class packaging
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Blue Nile Blue Nile is the largest and most well-known internet jewelry seller. They have a very large exclusive online inventory. Their high-quality images are catching up to James Allens' and their prices are amazing. Save 25% on settings at Blue Nile!

Please enter your email address to receive your 25% off coupon code:

What we love about them:
  • No questions asked returns within 30 days of shipment. Blue Nile will send you a paid shipping label to return the ring.
  • Lifetime Warranty
  • Free Shipping
  • Free prong tightening, repolishing, rhodium plating and cleaning every 6 months
  • Provide insurance appraisal
  • One free resizing within the first year of purchase
  • High quality images of about half of their diamonds
  • 24/7 Customer Service
  • 100% credit towards future upgrades (must be at least double in value)
  • Best in class fulfillment
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